Thursday, April 19, 2012

Boston Marathon 2012

A friend of a mine from UCLA (we were grad school classmates), flew to Boston this past weekend to run the Boston Marathon.

I made a video, documenting his pre- and post-race:





Even though my viewing spot at the 26 mile mark (.2 miles from the finish line), it's essentially impossible to get decent footage of the actual race unless you have a press pass -- you can only see runners pass by you.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Producing Ultra-Sharp Images

A few months ago, I bought a Zeiss 50mm f/2.0 Makro-Planar T* ZE Lens. This lens is hailed as one of the sharpest lenses in the world, and it's strictly a manual focus lens (no automatic focus).

Over the past year or so, I've taken 1,000+ pics of the jewelry that Sheley makes and sells. It's a learning experience, but clearly it's desirable to take pics that are incredibly clear and sharp.

So, with my new lens, and my side-hobby task of taking pics for Sheley, I was lead to the quest to produce what I'll call "ultra-sharp" images. I use this technique whenever I can; not just for jewelry photos.

My approach is to:
  • use a really sturdy tripod (my Benro A-1690)
  • use my manual focus Zeiss 50mm lens
  • I replaced my camera's internal focusing screen with the Eg-s screen, which assists my vision through the viewfinder by making the in-focus area appear very crisp and everything else really blurry
  • use the LCD screen at 10x magnification to view the subject, to help focus
  • use a remote shutter release (or put it on a 2-second timer) so that my pressing the shutter button doesn't shake the camera at all
Basically, it's an exciting process and requires much deliberation, patience, and carefulness for each shot. It's the closest I'll ever come to performing surgery.

Sample 1 -- The Penny


The viewfinder is so sensitive that moving the camera's focusing ring the slightest amount I possibly can is the difference between "In God We Trust" being in focus versus "2010" being in focus.

Sample 2 -- Boston Skyline 1/2 mile away


Notice how you can see each window with at least some detail. Pretty crazy considering the windows are half a mile away.

Sample 3 -- huge panorama of Boston from .8 miles away


Sample 4 -- Sheley's Jewelry

Unfortunately, images displayed on the web are rarely greater than 900 pixels in length, and are compressed greatly; thus, the increase in sharpness may often not even be discernible for images posted to the web. Oh well, it's been really fun for me to discover how to push my camera and lens to their limits.

In the meantime, I've become a huge fan of Zeiss, and I can easily understand why they're considered a world leader and pioneer for producing world-class optical equipment, from medical lenses, microscopes, camera lenses, etc.

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Oatmeal Butterscotch Chocolate Chip Cookies!

Sheley's made some great recipes lately, including an amazing Mexican chicken dish. Plus, she's been eating super healthy vegetable dishes. Okay, with that disclaimer aside, I can now present the less-healthy, but incredibly delicious dessert that she made, of which I have happily been the primary consumer:

Oatmeal Butterscotch Chocolate Chip Cookies!

Here are some pics I took of them:






Saturday, January 14, 2012

The Longest Grocery Store Lines Ever

Instead of my normal grocery shopping at Costco, I sometimes still go to Market Basket (aka Home of Chaos) for their super good deals. Market Basket's parking lot is insane, as it can take 10 minutes to get a parking spot. Yet, it's just a warm-up/sample of the hectic crowd inside.

Today I witnessed the craziness checkout lines I've ever witnessed. All ~10 check-out lines were so long that they bent in all directions and fed all the way into the aisles!

Every single person in this pile up is actually in a check-out line:

As mentioned, some lines extended far into the nearby, incredibly healthy aisles, as shown:

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Yummy Oatmeal Cranberry Walnut Mini-Muffins

Sheley and I cook daily, but usually we don't venture too far from our norm. I always cook breakfast, and usually she or I cook dinner ~5-6 nights a week. But, we're attempting to cook more special, tasty recipes and just ad-hoc, fun items.

This weekend, Sheley spontaneously cooked some very tasty oatmeal cranberry walnut mini-muffins, topped w/ pineapple!


Not unrelated, I just bought a 10-lb bag of oats from Costco. So, I'll be making oatmeal/cranberry/walnut/splenda/cinnamon as half of my breakfast fairly often.

Monday, January 2, 2012

Re-Designing New Year Resolutions: No Deadlines, Only Startlines*

At the beginning of 2011, I made a huge spreadsheet of all of the goals I wanted to accomplish throughout the year, which spanned multiple categories: work/research, playing guitar, painting, photography, weight lifting, jogging, recreational reading, cooking, etc. I detailed concrete, quarterly 3-month goals for every single category. Yet, I still failed miserably.

As we all know, it's very easy to put things off. However, I thought that defining objective deadlines for all of my tasks would help keep me regimented. Sure, I was pretty disciplined in some of the categories, but in some categories I essentially did nothing at all. Why is this, and how did it happen?

The main reason is that other, more pressing matters took higher precedence throughout the year, allowing me to completely neglect some categories.

For example, if something at work starts to consume all of my attention, I often put off doing everything else. I feel this is true for most people. We are good at accomplishing deadlines within our career. Why is that? We need to mimic that for all of our deadlines. I believe most people are good at meeting career deadlines because:
  1. we all work towards the deadline very often (~daily)
  2. we take it seriously (we don't want to be jobless or homeless)
  3. we are ideally passionate about the career work
All of these items help, but I believe the biggest one that separates goals of mine that were accomplished from those that were not is #1; when I look at my failed resolutions, the failed categories are ones that I never got momentum in -- the start was flaky at best.

There will always be some unforeseen task that comes up which I bump up to priority #1. And, if I have ~8 main categories that I'm trying to all work towards through the year, it will likely be the case that at least 3 of them will never be touched because of these unforeseen, pressing deadlines related to work/family/other goals. This leads me to think that setting deadlines is not necessarily ideal.

Sure, it's good to have objective marks signifying where you'd like to be, but even setting more regimented, smaller time-scaled deadlines isn't sufficient.

Personally, I always have some to-do list that I'm often working on. I got into this habit since I was just a little kid, my mom tells me. In recent years, my to-do list often spans a few days or a week. Even with this, I find myself often not getting around to at least 1-3 of say 10-15 items each time. Those items are typically not essential, so they sadly get pushed off and never done.

My point is, even a 5-day list of deadlines proves to be difficult enough to follow, so of course there's no way I/we can 100% fulfill a more grand, all-encompassing schedule of deadlines that span an entire year. List of deadlines, even if they are only span a week, will leave me short, as some items never get started.

So, let's not plot everything with respect to the end and the deadlines, even if they have intermediate deadlines. Rather, let's make startlines. Let's list the days on which we'll start things, and this takes highest priority over everything. In fact, when unforeseen pressing matters come up, let's then force these annoying deadlines to work around our pre-detailed startlines.

For example, say some art show is coming up, and I desperately want to edit, print, and mat a bunch of new photos that I had just taken a few days ago. In this very real example, I often put all other recreational activities behind in order to urgently get this done. Instead, I should keep in mind the big picture, relax my requirements for the photography art show (realizing that it's okay to not have the latest photos), and force myself to revolve my schedule around any previously schedule startlines. If I had previously listed that I will devote 2 hours to trying to learn to play guitar on Wednesday, and the pressing art show happened to be on Friday, well, I should still pick up the guitar on Wednesday.

I'm starting this approach for 2012. We'll see if it serves me well.

In short, let's try to list the actual days on which we'll start and do things, not far-away deadlines by which everything will magically be done.

Along the same lines, maybe I shouldn't think of any my goals in terms of long-term end results; maybe I should define my goals in terms of sheer investment.

To illustrate, well, I'll pick one of my goals which is highly quantifying, tempting to view in terms of long-term end results, and one that is amongst my least embarrassing (one which I haven't been too slack and delinquent): weight-lifting.

One of my weight-lifting goals concerns my body weight and my max 1-rep bench press. I currently weigh 147 lbs and my max bench press is 225 lb. My 2011 goal was to get back to my prime: weigh 156 lbs and bench press 240 lb. I would like to reach this in 2012, too. I know what it takes to get back to this condition (going hardcore on particular exercises, working out 5 times a week, proper nutrition, etc). So, instead of defining my success in terms of some boolean 1-point check of reaching the goal or not, I should make my goal to be the appropriate, necessary investment that's required to meet that goal.

Specifically, my goal should not be:
  • By March 30: weigh 150 and bench 228.
  • By June 30: weigh 152 and bench 235.
  • By September 30: weigh 155 and bench 238.
  • By December 30: weigh 156 and bench 240.
Instead, maybe it should be:
  • In January, continue to go to the gym at least 3 times a week
  • In February, increase to a consistent 4 times a week (17 times total).
  • In March, increase to 20 times total.
Similarly, I could define specific workout goals in terms of the necessary investment. For example, "do chest & back workouts 2 times a week." As long as I do this, who cares if I EXACTLY meet some particular bench press weight goal such as benching 240 lbs or not? If I follow this investment schedule, I know I'll be close to my desired results. If I'm a few pounds under or over, so be it. I should be happy with my amount of effort and how much time I dedicate to this hobby that I love and enjoy. That's the most important thing.

Along the same lines, I shouldn't make it a goal to "learn how to play a guitar song by February 1," but "spend 2 hours per week learning to play guitar." You get the idea.

I like this approach. Any thoughts?

* Yea, Startlines sounds cheesy, but I had to call it something.

Friday, October 28, 2011

Tips for buying a new camera and lens

I get asked this question pretty often, so here's my very short write-up.

Disclaimer: I'm just hitting the highlights and providing my own quick, generalized recommendations and tidbits about photography. It's better to exhaustively research equipment for your specific needs.


General Points
  • Worry more about your choice of lens(es) than about the body
  • Say you have $1.5k to spend. A $1,200 lens on a $300 body will produce better pictures than a $300 lens on a $1,200 body. Try to find some middle ground.
  • You truly get what you pay for.
  • The popular namebrands all generally make great products.
  • Camera bodies:
Canon and Nikon are both excellent. There is no clear superior company. I prefer Canon. Sony is making some serious strides. Pentax currently has some ~$1,000 bodies that are more rugged than anything else at that price point, yet, SLRs are typically much more durable than you'd imagine. Instead of SLRs, mirrorless cameras are really nifty, too, as they kind of combine the best of both worlds: manual controls and lens interchangeability of SLRs, and compactness of point-and-shoots. Panasonic is currently leading this forefront.
  • Whatever camera body namebrand you pick, plan to stick with it because you can't expect your lenses to work with other camera namebrands (e.g., Nikon lenses won't work with Canon bodies.)
  • Lenses retain their value VERY well (and may increase in price over time), whereas camera bodies are like computers and degrade somewhat quickly (for example, I bought a new $455 lens from bhphotovideo.com. 3 years later, it was being sold for $490, and I sold it used on eBay for $460. At this moment, it sells on the same site for $579!)
  • Cameras do not retain their value well: a entry-level camera body for $800 will sell for ~$250 used in 4 years.
  • Used lenses are barely cheaper than new ones. So, unless you find some insane deal from craigslist or eBay, buy new.
  • Buy from bhphotovideo.com -- they're 1 of the best companies I've ever experienced.

Lenses
  • The key to buying a lens is to pick the focal length you want, then aim for the one with the largest aperture (smallest F/stop number). The aperture is the size of the diaphragm that lets in light. You want the biggest hole (smallest F/ number you can get), which means it let's in more light. This is good because it allows you to shoot in poorly lit conditions like when the sun is setting, and it also allows you the option of creating photos such that the background is nice and blurred out.
  • Prime lenses (aka non-zoom lenses) are optically better than zoom lenses. This isn't to say that there aren't some amazing zoom lenses. For example, the Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L is a very nice and expensive zoom lens. Yet, at any focal length in that range, Canon makes a prime (non-zoom) lens that is optically superior than what the zoom can produce at that given focal length. Zooms are handy for fast-moving, unpredictable environments like wild life and sports scenarios. See http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Zoom-Vs-Prime-Lens.aspx for more info.
  • Canon and Nikon/Nikkor make comparable, excellent lenses. Leica and Zeiss lenses are typically the best that exist. Sigma is a 3rd party manufacturer that makes some great lenses that are on par with Canon/Nikon. I haven't tried Tamron, but they're popular. A moderately-priced (~$700) wide-angle lens that is highly acclaimed is the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8. As mentioned, non-zoom lenses have higher optical quality compared to their counterparts, but for wide-angle shots, zooms can be handy.
  • lenses in the 15mm - 24mm range are ultra wide-angle and good for landscapes and interior shooting
  • lenses in the 28mm - 50mm range are good for most general-purpose situations
  • lenses in the 85mm - 100mm range are good for macro, portraits, and almost telephoto situations
  • lenses in the 135mm - 400mm range are good for telephoto, long-away situations

Research
Obviously, you'll read user reviews of the equipment before you buy it. There is no shortage of online literature; however, I find the following resources particularly useful:

Exact Buying Suggestions
To very specifically answer the question of "what to buy with $X money," this is what I'd recommend for the common person (i.e., one who isn't looking to specialize in only food photography or say airplane photography):

If you're willing to spend less than $1,000:
  • lens: buy the Canon 50mm f/1.8 for ~$110
  • body: spend the rest of the money on the best Canon body you can afford.

If you're willing to spend $1,000 - $2,000:
  • lenses: buy 2 lenses: 1 somewhere in the 30mm - 50mm range, and 1 in the 85mm - 100mm range. I highly recommend the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 for ~$450 and the Canon 100mm f/2.8 for ~$480.
  • body: spend the rest on the best Canon body you can afford.
If you're willing to spend much more:
  • body: buy a high-end full-frame body from Canon or Nikon (they currently cost $2,000+).
  • lenses: spend the rest of the money on high-end lenses such as Canon L series lenses. I highly recommend the Canon 35mm f/1.4L and the Canon 135mm f/2.0L, but all Canon L series lenses are great. If you deem 135mm to be too long of a focal length, the Canon 85mm 1.2L and Canon 100mm f/2.8L are also highly acclaimed.  Alternatively, if you prefer wider-angle shots as opposed to telephoto, the Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 II L is a spectacular lens, too.  If you feel comfortable shooting in manual-focus mode, Zeiss makes manual-focus lenses for Canon and Nikon which often outperform anything Canon and Nikon can offer for a particular focal length.  Specifically, the Zeiss 25mm f/2.0 ZE, Zeiss 50mm f/2.0 ZE, and Zeiss 100mm f/2.0 ZE are world-class and unparalleled in performance.  I currently own the first two of these Zeiss lenses and enjoy them immensely!
If money is no object:
  • please buy me a Leica body and/or some Leica and Zeiss lenses.

Other Accessories You Might Want to Eventually Buy
  • Back-up batteries
  • Filters (e.g,. polarizing, UV, ND, etc)
  • Remote Shutter Release (they are as low as $5 and allow you to remotely press the shutter, which helps because it shakes the camera less than when touching the button. also very useful for long exposures)
  • Good Tripod (at least $150. I highly recommend Benro A-1690 Travel Angel)
  • Camera Backpack (I highly recommend the Lowepro Flipside 300)

General Starting Tips
  • fully read your camera's manual
  • take a LOT of pictures
  • think about what you're trying to capture and convey
  • learn to shoot in Av and Manual mode
  • shoot in RAW mode
  • get good/comfortable with a powerful photo editor (I recommend Lightroom)